From mushroom leather to seaweed fibre, we’ve seen a whole host of innovative – and more sustainable – materials crop up in the industry of late. But one major challenge has been getting brands to embrace these new fabrics, as well as scaling them (case in point: Bolt Threads’s Mylo material, made from mushroom roots and backed by the likes of Stella McCartney and Adidas, ceased production last year).
That’s why the Challenge The Fabric Award, an initiative launched by the Swedish Fashion Council and Ekman Group, partners eight young designers with eco-minded fabric innovators to create one look on which they are judged. “Challenge The Fabric resonates deeply with our brand’s ethos of embracing sustainability and pushing the boundaries of innovation in the realm of fashion,” Paolina Russo and Lucile Guilmard, co-founders of Paolina Russo, tell Vogue. “The project presented an exciting platform for us to explore the fusion of craftsmanship with cutting-edge technology, particularly [how] natural dyeing and hand-printing techniques [can be] applied to innovative sustainable fabrics.”
The London-based duo were partnered with Spinnova, a responsibly-sourced wood-based fibre, as part of the challenge, using the material to create a printed denim jacket, miniskirt and jeans, which were dyed using indigo and pine. “Each piece is a canvas for hand craftsmanship and gives a platform for local artisans,” the designers continue.
Meanwhile, fellow London-based brand Karoline Vitto was matched with HeiQ AeoniQ, a polyester alternative that’s made from cellulose and is 100 per cent biodegradable and recyclable. “The fabric had an incredible drape and stretch quality, [making it] perfect for our signature contouring silhouettes,” the Brazilian designer, who created a black cut-out dress featuring metal-wire detailing, describes.
Upcycling specialist Renata Brenha joined forces with Birla Cellulose, another responsibly-sourced viscose, for her pink ruffled top and matching shorts. “Both fabrics I was given had an excellent tactile feel, and were soft and breathable,” she says. “They were also lightweight, which made it ideal for manipulating, and working with artisanal techniques without making the garments too heavy. The fabric took the dyes beautifully.”
The winner of the $10,000 prize was Yaku Stapleton, a recent Central Saint Martins graduate, who created a futuristic green look using Impetus Group’s Circulose, a 100 per cent recycled fibre made from textiles waste. “Initially it was [about] understanding what the fabric was and what the limits of it were,” he says. “[We] use a lot of deadstock, second-hand – being able to work with a proper supplier is the next step.”
Louise Lyngh Bjerregaard created her look using Nanollose, which turns industrial and agricultural waste into a rayon fibre. Antonio Giancaspro
While there was only winner, it’s clear that all the designers (who also included Abra, Louise Lyngh Bjerregaard, Sylvi Sundkler and Vel Don Sa Lim) are keen to adopt new innovations moving forward – even though they are not always accessible for those ordering in lower quantities. “There remains a need for greater support and investment to democratise the adoption of sustainable technologies among emerging designers,” Russo and Guilmard say. “We believe that by championing these innovations and collaborating with like-minded partners, we can drive positive change and inspire others to embrace sustainability in fashion.”
Source: British Vogue Link: https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/challenge-the-fabric-award-2024 Author: Emily Chan Published: 15 May 2024
